A Costume Designer for the Decade
By: Hope Wilkos, Writer
This is “the” year of the most magnetic and creatively inspired Ruth E. Carter. Her career has told passionate stories over the decades and 2019 has placed the spotlight on not just her past accomplishments, but, the designer’s most recent outstanding achievements as well.
As NYFW kicked off on Wednesday, February 6, 2019 at Spring Studios in New York City, design original brand Harlem’s Fashion Row along with fashion management giant, IMG, paid tribute to one of the fashion industry’s most legendary costume designers, Ruth E. Carter. The tribute was all professionally laid out in the form of a memorable exhibition titled “Next of Kin.” It drew a standing room only audience eager to enjoy the wondrous transformations of style that Ruth has brought us over the years.
Ruth E. Carter has brought stories alive with her cinematic energy and magical expertise. We all know Carter’s work from famous films such as Selma, Malcolm X and, most recently, the Oscar nominated film Black Panther. On display on this star-studded evening were some of the designer’s finest looks that had captivated on the big screen, such as King T’Challa’s United Nations garb from the final scenes of Black Panther, the authentic Zoot suits of Malcolm X and those enigmatic platform shoes from I’m Gonna Git You Sucka’sdebonair Flyguy. Among the notable guests in attendance were Odell Beckham Jr., Victor Cruz, Dapper Dan, Karen Elson, Miss Universe Catriona Gray, Tess Holliday, Chanel Iman, Karolina Kurkova, Tara Lynn, Cam Newton, Billy Porter, Marquita Pring, Shaun Ross, BozomaSaint John, and Lucky Blue Smith. Guests took to the dance floor as the DJ continued to play both old and new school R&B, soul, and hip-hop classics, creating an atmosphere to socialize and observe the costume installations. The installation included both live models and mannequins, along with props that emphasized the social and political commentary made in many of the films represented by the exhibit. Carter has contributed her design creativity to over 40 films in addition to being costume designer for the BET Show, Being Mary Jane. She was more than thrilled to be given such honors and kudos for a skill that she has perfected as her passion. Additionally, what a marvelous way to kick off the start to another stylish and trend-topping New York Fashion Week.
Ruth E. Carter’s designs not only bring substance to film and television, but, she has been in demand over the years to dress high profile stars such as Josh Brolin, Denzel Washington, Angela Bassett and Jane Fonda. In 2002, Ruth received the Career Achievement Award at the American Black Film Festival.
If Carter thought that the accolades ended after she took her bows at the NYFW event, she was quite mistaken. On Sunday, February 24th, 2019, Carter never would have imagined that she would walk away from the Dolby Theatre in Los Angeles with yet another credit to her name. At the 91stAnnual Academy Awards, Ruth E. Carter made Oscar history as she became the first African American woman to win the Oscar for BestCostume Design in Black Panther. She had formerly been nominated for her gifted work in Steven Spielberg’s Amistad and Spike Lee’s Malcolm X. The third time was the charm, being met with an excitement that was hard to contain. With such lavish costumes intricately designed for Black Panther’s characters, it was no easy feat. There was plenty of dedication and teamwork that came into play to make the film’s costumes an immense success. Carter studied the annals of history to get a take on the wardrobe of the past and move the concept into a more futuristic look, consistent with history. Carter sent shoppers to South Africa and Ghana and after the designswere created on paper, the outfits were made in South Korea and Busan. Much of the embroidery was completed in Thailand. In Carter’s acceptance speech, she profusely thanked Spike Lee who happened to be in the audience. Spike gave Ruth a beginning to all great ends. The Black Panther cast gave her a standing ovation.
With this well-deserved win, Ruth E. Carter has emphasized diversity in costume to a much larger audience, making fans and followers and critics take notice of costume in films and transforming normalcy to new limits. Still being in her 50’s, Carter has many more milestones to attain and so many more awards to accept. She sets the bar higher each time she reaches a plateau.
Later this year, a retrospective traveling exhibition highlighting the work of Ruth E. Carter will travel to museums across the globe and will be titled “Dress Code: 35 Years of Ruth E. Carter’s Afrocentric Movie Costumes.”
