Exhibit, First Of Its Kind, To Arrive At The Museum @ FIT
By: Hope Wilkos, Writer
Ann Lowe, wedding dress, 1968, USA, Gift of Judith A. Tabler, 2009.70.2 (Courtesy of Museum @ FIT)
The wonderful world of fashion is being examined through the annals of history in the newest exhibit, soon to debut at The Museum @ Fashion Institute of Technology, commonly known as FIT, in New York City. On December 6, 2016, visitors will be taken beyond the original to see how ‘Black Fashion Designers’ have influenced the fashion industry over the decades. FIT will present a look at the global history of black designers and models dating back to 1950 and then bringing its audience all the way up to the present. The exhibit will be divided into eight segments or themes beginning with ‘Breaking Into The Industry’ followed by ‘The Rise Of The Black Designer’, ‘Black Models’, ‘Evening Wear’, ‘The African Influence’, ‘Street Influence’, ‘Activism’, ‘Menswear’ and ‘Experimentation.’
Scott Barrie, dress, circa 1973, USA, Gift of Naomi Sims, 81.145.3 (Courtesy of Museum @ FIT)
Rarely given the credit they so duly deserve, this important set of designers and models allow their talent and creativity to creep into the limelight, but hardly gaining the recognition worthy of their fine expertise. Featured in the exhibit will be over 60 designers of African descent. Designers such as Stephen Burrows and Scott Barrie dominate the late 60’s and early 70’s. Many a woman envied and admired Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy’s gorgeous wedding gown, but little was known about the black designer, Ann Lowe, who created that gown and many others like it. She was in her element when designing couture, and yet, she remained one of those hardly-known designers whose fashion creations captured the pleasingly esthetic eye. She passed away in 1981, unknown to the normal fashion consumer.
Lawrence Steele, dress, Spring 2002, Italy, Gift of Lawrence Steele, 2016.62.1 (Courtesy of Museum @ FIT)
On the other hand, many names are familiar to those with a penchant for fashion. The exhibit will highlight the unique work of Tracy Reese, Dyer Moss, Grace Wales Bonner, Hood By Air and entertainer turned designer, Sean John. Leaving their footprint on the design world and gaining attention within this exhibit are Bruce Oldfield who designed exquisite evening wear, Savile Row’s Ozwald Boateng and Dapper Dan.
Eric Gaskins, dress, 2014, USA, Gift of Eric Gaskins, 2016.53.1 (Courtesy of Museum @ FIT)
Dare if you might to go into the world of these gifted designers to see how they have been inspired by the traditional African textiles and art. Each determined their own interpretation, classic to their work.
Duro Olowu, ensemble, Fall 2012, England, Gift of Duro Olowu, 2016.65.1 (Courtesy of Museum @ FIT)
The exhibit @ FIT also boldly steps into the modeling industry, looking at the industry-changing faces of Naomi Sims, Veronica Webb and Lisa Kebede. These are the ground-breaking faces that changed the way the industry was viewed. Each of the three models chose a dress that represents their particular style and they are documented in a short film which visitors are encouraged to watch. The film will be narrated by Washington Post Fashion Critic, Robin Givhan. Andre’ Leon Talley of Vogue fame, will also play a role in a short film where he has a stimulating conversation with Reese and Mimi Plange.
Mimi Plange, dress, Spring 2013, USA, Gift of Mimi Plange, 2016.49.1 (Courtesy of Museum @ FIT)
Grace Wales Bonner, ensemble, Spring 2017, England, Museum purchase. Photograph by Morgan O’Donovan
See how the Ebony Fashion Fair, a highly respected event, has continued to influence black models and what a powerful role the event has played over the years.
Black designers and models have challenged the norm, braved unchartered territory and broken down barriers to play a significant role in how fashion has been shaped. ‘Black Fashion Designers’, on display at The Museum @ FIT, from December 6, 2016 through May 16, 2017, is the first major exhibit of its kind to be shown to the public. These 75 fashions that will be displayed for the public to gaze in awe at are also from the permanent collection held at FIT. Exclusively accompanying the exhibit is an introductory short film which addresses the controversial topic of diversity within fashion. The film was funded by the FIT Diversity Council.
‘Black Fashion Designers’ is organized by Ariele Elia, assistant curator of Costume and Textiles, and Elizabeth Way, curatorial assistant, The Museum @ FIT.
The curators were supported by an advisory committee of scholars and fashion professionals, some of whom are participating in the exhibition’s symposium, audio tour, and Fashion Culture program series.
Also take note that at The Museum @ FIT will host a one-day symposium on February 6, 2017, featuring talks by designers, models, journalists, and scholars on African diasporic culture and fashion. A provisional list of speakers for the symposium and Spring 2017 Fashion Culture program series includes writer Teri Agins, stylist June Ambrose, journalist and photographer Dario Calmese, Professor Alphonso McClendon, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs, Dapper Dan of Harlem, designer Grace Wales Bonner, former model and founder of The Diversity Coalition Bethann Hardison, Professor Monica Miller, designer Mimi Plange, Professor Eric Darnell Pritchard, Professor Elena Romero, Professor Victoria Rovine, costume designer Jeriana San Juan, and model Veronica Webb.
Black Fashion Designers is made possible by the support of the Couture Council and the President’s Diversity
