GREET SPRING WITH CHARLES JAMES:BEYOND FASHION
By: Hope Wilkos, Writer/Blogger
New York City can almost time the approach to spring by the stylish arrival of the annual exhibition brought to the Metropolitan Museum of Art which takes place the first week in May. Each year, some of the biggest and most historical names in the art and fashion industry have their designs put on display for the world to admire.
We go back in time to look upon the influential trend-setters and masters of design of an era. This year, ‘Charles James:Beyond Fashion’ will capture beauty at its finest as the exhibition opens on May 8, 2014, and continues through August 10, 2014.
Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
“Butterfly” Ball Gown, ca. 1955
Brown silk chiffon, cream silk satin, brown silk satin, dark brown nylon tulle
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Fund, 2013 (2013.591)
Charles James was an Anglo-American couturier who lived a legendary life from 1906-1978. This particular exhibition goes deep into the life of James, exploring his entire design process and focusing on his use of sculptural, scientific and mathematical approaches to creating ball gowns with innovative tailoring. Present-day designers often gasp in awe at the meticulous mastery of his design works. MET visitors will be able to peruse two locations worth of gorgeous fashions, the new Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery in the Anna Wintour Costume Center as well as special exhibition galleries on the Museum’s first floor.
Visitors will enjoy viewing 75 of James’ iconic fashions which will be on display. “Charles James was a wildly idiosyncratic, emotionally fraught fashion genius who was also committed to teaching,” said Harold Koda, Curator in Charge of The Costume Institute. “He dreamt that his lifetime of personal creative evolution and the continuous metamorphosis of his designs would be preserved as a study resource for students. In our renovated galleries, we will fulfill his goal and illuminate his design process as a synthesis of dressmaking, art, math, and science.”
Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
Evening Dress, 1948
Black silk satin and black silk velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Millicent Huttleston Rogers, 1949 (2009.300.734)
The evolution of the fashions designed by Charles James will forever serve as a study resource for students desiring to follow closely in his footsteps and draw on his works of art as their sole inspiration.
James’ gowns were resplendent works of art worn by some of the most prestigious women of his time such as Austine Hearst, Millicent Rogers and Dominique de Menil. He designed to accentuate the woman’s body and flatter every one of her curves.
Ironically, ‘Beyond Fashion’ was to be the title that Charles James wanted for his autobiography that never came to fruition during his lifetime. He felt the importance of preserving his work and therefore persuaded some of his most prestigious clients to donate his designs to the Brooklyn Museum. These pieces were acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2009, making the MET the holder of the most comprehensive collection of the designer’s work in the world.
Charles James “Butterfly” Gown, 1954
Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s
Throughout his career, James was known for a specific style characterized by wrap-over trousers, figure-eight skirts, body-hugging sheaths, ribbon capes and dresses, spiral-cut garments and poufs. His ball gowns of the 1940’s and 1950’s were all given particular names to match their loveliness such as “Butterfly”, “Swan” and “Diamond” and some of these will be on display as part of the exhibition. After viewing the exhibition, you will surely want to take home the book published by the Metropolitan Musuem of Art with the same name as the exhibition, ‘Charles James:Beyond Fashion’ by Harold Koda and Jan Glier Reeder, which will be available at the Museum for $50 in hard cover with 330 gorgeous color illustrations.
Prior to the exhibition opening to the public, the lavish Costume Institute Gala Benefit will take place on the evening of May 5, 2014. This event is The Costume Institute’s main source of annual funding for exhibitions, acquisitions, and capital improvements. Organizing the event this year will be Chair Aerin Lauder along with her co-chairs, Bradley Cooper, Oscar de la Renta, Sarah Jessica Parker, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch and Anna Wintour. Celebrities dress for the occasion based on the theme set forth for the event that ties to the exhibition. Onlookers line the streets near the Museum to catch a glimpse of the stars walking the Red Carpet as the flashes of the paparazzi’s’ cameras light up the night.
The fashions are contagious and the atmosphere grows with the excitement of the celebrity presence throughout the evening event. There is truly no better way to salute the fashion industry and pay tribute to those who shaped the industry.
This May also marks the Museum’s opening of the Anna Wintour Costume Center which is the direct result of a 2-year full renovation. It includes a state-of-the-art costume conservation center and an extensive fashion library as well as an expanded study/storage facility. This was partially possible from the funds raised by the annual Costume Gala.
Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978)
Evening Dress, 1946
Black silk-rayon velvet, red silk satin, brown silk faille, black silk crepe
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos, 1954 (2009.300.795)
The exhibition, ‘Charles James:Beyond Fashion’ is made possible by AERIN with additional support by Condé Nast.
The Museum’s website, www.metmuseum.org/charlesjames, features information on the exhibition and new galleries. Follow us on Facebook.com/metmuseum,
Instagram.com/metmuseum, and Twitter.com/metmuseum to join the conversation about the exhibition and gala benefit. Use #CharlesJames and #MetGala on Instagram and Twitter.
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